I wanted to take back my kitchen.
Like most of the rest of our house, it's blocked off from the squibs with multiple baby gates.
And those have...for the most part...been successful in keeping them out.
But lately they've been using the gates as ladders...or playing pick up games of "Throw the ________ Over the Gate and Listen to It Hit the Kitchen Floor" and that's getting old.
My body is ALSO getting old. And despite the fact that I have had those godforsaken gates up for over a year and a half now, my legs REFUSE to learn the height of them. I step over those gates about 50 times a day and hit my shin or catch my foot on the gates about 43 of those times.
So, I wanted to take back my kitchen.
But you know my squibs.
I have MULTIPLE cupboards and drawers that I don't want to find a squib inside.
I have MULTIPLE cupboards and drawers whose contents I don't want strewn about the previously mentioned kitchen floor.
So, it was time to squib proof the area.
I scoped out a few toddler-proofing options and finally settled on this model for the following reasons...
Justin REFUSED to attempt any more installation of plastic childproofing devices. Not only have they NOT been successful in the past, but they've been hard as heck to install. The pinch kind, the push down kind, the loopity loop kind...all have failed. Our Tot Lock system is effective and actually works. I'll give it that. But it wasn't cheap and I don't think my marriage could survive the two hour installation process it involved.
So, I needed something adhesive and quick and relatively inexpensive because we have LOTS of drawers and cupboards.
Interrupting myself for those of you who are already thinking it...
Yes. LC is three and Jace is two and they should respect my directions to simply stay out of the cupboards. And that will work. When I'm there to SAY "stay out of the cupboards". But they don't tend to generalize overall rules that way. And I don't want to hourly restock my kitchen cabinets during the learning curve. So, they'll receive the discipline...and the direction...but I need something that will potentially save their lives and my back in the meantime.
Moving on...
I paid over $50 for multiple cabinet and drawer locks in the style shown above. I forgave the fact that they had to be installed OUTSIDE my cabinets and drawers. I forgave the little discs of self-adhesive that will surely remove the finish from the wood in quarter-sized patches when the locks come off.
I forgave all that because THAT is what desperate women do.
What I could NOT forgive was the fact that the blessed things didn't work.
Not for a millisecond.
I mean, they were installed and set and good to go and Biggs walked into that kitchen and opened every cabinet like I'd hung little white signs that read, "Biggie...Trash Me Next".
I wanted to weep.
But, insomnia once again proved useful.
And I came up with a method that DOES, indeed, work.
Better yet, it's cheap.
And quick.
I mean I had the kitchen squib-proofed in under 20 minutes for less than $8 kind of cheap and quick.
I don't know if it will work for everybody...but as cheap as it is, it's worth a shot.
Here's what you need:
1 package of
heavy duty/industrial strength self-adhesive velcro
1 pair of scissors
QUICK DISCLAIMER: In case you didn't already NOTICE...our cabinets are in desperate need of replacing. But if you lived with my toddlers, "new woodwork" wouldn't be on your short list of major purchases to make either.
Moving on...again...
You can decide if you want one "lock" or two for your drawers. I used two on the drawers that are directly squib accessible. For the drawers they can only shimmy open on tiptoe, I thought one lock would suffice. So far, it's done nicely.
Cut two strips of fuzzy velcro. I think these were about an inch thick. Or something.
Take the paper off the back and stick them above your drawer's opening like this:
Now, get the long strip of hook-side velcro and attach it to one of the velcro strips you just stuck up there.
Decide how far you want the drawer to be able to be pulled open. The "lock" is more effective if the strip has a bit of length to it. At least 3 inches or so...
(Yes. I'm wearing a Spiderman band aid. If you aren't living with a demographic that utilizes cartoon first aid supplies, I'm not sure you're at the right blog.)
Now, make two marks on the hook side strip of velcro.
This step won't be necessary once you get going...you'll be able to eyeball things more closely, but it's a helpful step on the first few.
Cut the strip at "Line B"
The space between "Line A" and "Line B" is the amount of adhesive you should remove from the BACK of the velcro. You don't want the velcro sticking to stuff IN the drawer. You only want it to adhere TO the drawer. So you'll leave the majority of the velcro strip covered by plastic on the back.
This is what you're left with after you've cut both strips.
Now, attach the exposed sticky part of the velcro to the inside of the drawer. Leave one end attached to the fuzzy side, so you know WHERE you need the velcro to attach to the drawer.
Once you've stuck it on the drawer, it should look something like this.
When you want to "lock" the drawer, push the drawer nearly shut. Slide your finger underneath the hook side of the velcro and push it up until it meets the fuzzy side. The remaining length of velcro will fold as you push the drawer shut and the door will shut, nice and snug.
When you want the drawer to be unlocked, you'll just push down on the velcro, near the point where it's attached to the fuzzy velcro, and your drawer can be opened.
You don't see any velcro on the outside of the drawer.
When you're done with the locks, you'll pull them off and you won't remove the finish from the outside of your cabinets or drawers.
And, because the majority of your velcro is still covered in plastic, you can reuse it for other stuff.
And who doesn't love velcro?
Although I didn't show pictures, the velcro technique also works on cabinet doors. Just flip the set up on its side.
We're on Day Two of this system and it's working well. To further endorse the method, it should be said that Biggie operates developmentally at about the twelve month mark...in a 3 year old's body...with a 7 year old's strength. He's strong. Super strong. And not in a "Brag him up, isn't he wonderful" way. But in a "God sent this child to knock my house down" kind of way.
And it's worked with him.
So, if you're at the same point of desperation I was...give it a go. Let us know if it works out.
I know I'm keeping my fingers crossed this remains a winner...